Wednesday 19 October 2011

How to Replace a Transfer Case in a Jeep Cherokee

!±8± How to Replace a Transfer Case in a Jeep Cherokee

The Jeep Cherokee transfer case is an essential part of the for wheel drive system. The transfer case is separate from the transmission and can be easily removed for service or replacement. Here is how I did it last time I replaced one.

I began by draining the fluid by removing the bottom drain plug. Then I supported the transmission. Next I removed the front and rear drive shafts. An 8MM hex wrench and a pry bar was all that was needed.

I then unbolted the transmission mount using a 13MM socket. These nuts are inside the cross member and are accessed through the holes. Then I dropped the cross member by removing the 15MM bolts and nuts that hold it up. That gave me access to the transmission mount that is held to the transmission by two 18MM bolts. These bolts have thread locking compound on them and are hard to turn all the way out. I inspected the mount which is often broken in high mileage vehicles like this one but it was fine. Next I slipped the exhaust mount off the tab.

Rather than mess with the shift linkage bushing in the cold, I unbolted the shift lever from the transfer case. I selected 2wd and used a 9/16 wrench to remove the nut and washer. I carefully lowered the linkage out of the way. Normally I press out the linkage from the bushing. Unbolting the lever was easy so I may begin using that method as standard practice.

Next I removed the speedometer drive by unbolting the 13MM retaining bolt and removing the clip. I left the sender attached to the wiring harness. I pulled the harness away from the mounting tab on top of the case. I unplugged the mode light switch and moved the wiring out of the way.

Next, I unbolted the six 9/16 nuts that hold the case to the transmission. Five are accessed using a box end wrench. The last one is behind the transfers case shift linkage bracket and has to be accessed using a 9/16 socket and a long extension. The two near the exhaust pipe take some patience to get off unless you remove the exhaust pipe. Since this one was in good shape and welded in place, I left it alone. Lowering the case down helps get access to these two nuts.

With the six nuts off, the transfer case slides easily off the transmission. I then prepared the replacement case to go back in by putting it in 4wd. This allowed me to rotate the front yoke and make the input splines turn to line them up. With the replacement case in place I started a nut to hold in there.

Next, I tightened all six nuts. I then reinstalled the shift linkage, wiring harness and speedometer drive. I put the case in 2wd to make the linkage line up with the lever. I then reinstalled the front drive shaft as it is easier to access with the cross member out of the way. I filled the transfer case with fluid before putting up the rear drive shaft as it is easier to get the bottle in place with out the drive shaft in the way. The 231 holds a little more than a quart of ATF.

I then put up the exhaust bracket and transmission mount. Again, these bolts are hard to turn due to the thread locking compound on them. I then put up the cross member and bolted it to the body before lowering the weight of the transmission onto the cross member. I then reinstalled the four nuts that hold the transmission mount to the cross member.

Then, I reinstalled the rear drive shaft. I checked for leaks and loose bolts and then lowered the Jeep for a test drive. The replacement transfer case worked fine and shifted to all gears with out adjusting the linkage. If a linkage adjustment is needed, loosen the 13 MM bolt on the linkage and slide it to the proper position.


How to Replace a Transfer Case in a Jeep Cherokee

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Wednesday 12 October 2011

Should You Have Your Car's Transmission Flushed?

!±8± Should You Have Your Car's Transmission Flushed?

Depending on the make and model of your vehicle, and whether you purchase a rebuilt or new transmission, replacing the assembly can cost up to ,500. For this reason, you should do everything possible to prolong its life. As with your engine, regular maintenance can go a long way toward protecting your transmission from premature failure. The good news is that maintenance is as easy as changing the fluid.

You may have noticed that the mechanics at your dealership or local repair shop recommend transmission flushes. But is the service necessary? More importantly, could it cause a problem with your car's tranny? In this article, we'll present both sides of the issue, so you'll be able to make an informed decision about the service. We'll also provide a quick "how to" guide for changing the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in your vehicle.

Advantage Of Replacing The ATF

Some automakers claim that drivers do not need to change the fluid in their transmissions. They suggest the ATF can last the life of the assembly. Unfortunately, this claim may not be entirely true.

The fluid is filled with chemicals that help protect your transmission during operation. These chemicals ensure the gears shift smoothly and reliably. The problem is, the heat surrounding the assembly causes the temperature of the ATF to rise. This in turn causes oxidation; the chemicals begin to break down, and provide less protection to the tranny. When this happens, the moving parts begin to generate friction, which causes the shifting to become staggered or uneven. You'll notice a delayed response, or a jerking sensation when the gears shift.

Replacing the fluid introduces a new batch of protective chemicals into the assembly. They prevent the friction that can eventually destroy the gears and other components. Thus, changing the ATF prolongs its useful life, and postpones an overhaul.

So, how often should you change the fluid? A lot depends on the conditions in which you drive. Many mechanics suggest changing it every 30,000 miles, but placing a load on the assembly will accelerate the fluid's oxidation. If you normally drive aggressively, or haul heavy items up hills, you may need to change it every 20,000 miles.

Potential Hazards Of "Flushing" The Transmission

This brings us to the question of whether flushing your transmission is necessary and safe. During a flush, a special machine is used to push solvents at high pressure backward through the assembly. The solvents and pressure help to jar loose deposits and debris that have accumulated. By cleaning the system, the ATF can flow through it more easily, providing a higher level of lubrication.

There is a danger, however, that knocking loose the deposits will cause bigger problems down the road. For example, if the deposits are pushed through the assembly, but not expelled, they can create an obstruction that prevents fluid from flowing. This will essentially starve your transmission of ATF, which can quickly lead to costly repairs (or worse, an overhaul).

It is worth noting that flushes are generally not recommended for high-mileage vehicles (those with over 100,000 miles) for this reason.

Examining And Changing The Fluid

Thus far, we have explained why changing the ATF is a good idea, and the reason flushing your transmission is a poor one. We'll now explain how to do the former.

Before you start, check the scent, color, and consistency of the fluid. If the ATF is completely oxidized, it will smell as if something is burning. Next, place a few drops on a paper towel, and examine its color. If it is darkly colored, it needs to be changed. Observe its consistency as the drops spread on the paper towel. If the fluid is static (i.e. it does not spread), oxidation has already occurred.

Place sturdy jacks under the frame of your vehicle, and lift it. Locate the pan in which the fluid sits (typically, beneath the dipstick), and loosen the bolts that are holding it in place. Position a bowl or container under the pan to drain the ATF. Then, remove the pan. Some pans will be equipped with a drain plug that can be removed in order to drain the fluid.

With the pan removed and the ATF drained, clean any residual transmission fluid that remains in the pan. You'll likely see small metal particles; remove them, as well.

Next, replace the transmission filter, and the gasket around the perimeter of the pan. Install the new filter and gasket, and replace the pan before tightening the bolts. With everything in place, add the new ATF. Add it slowly, and check the level periodically to avoid overfilling.

The takeaway is that you should check your transmission fluid on a regular basis, and replace it when it becomes oxidized. But avoid having the assembly flushed since doing so can cause more harm than good.


Should You Have Your Car's Transmission Flushed?

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Saturday 8 October 2011

Don't Replace Your Automatic Transmission Fluid!

!±8± Don't Replace Your Automatic Transmission Fluid!

Are you taking care of your right cross around? And 'generally accepted that your car needs an engine oil changed as often as 3000 miles, but how many times you need to outsource the management of the automatic transmission fluid? This really depends on your car, please take a look at your car and run to see what they recommend. However, we will want some general rules of thumb, when the tranny fluid should be maintained to provide.

Unfortunately, the transsexualone of the most disregarded parts of rides now, and yet it's one of of the most critical parts. Neglecting to maintain your transmission can cause early failure, and if you do not maintain your tranny very early on in the lifetime of the car, you're setting your self up for trouble if you try to replace the fluid late in the transmission's lifetime.

Please follow the normal service guidelines detailed in your automobile's car manual. If it doesn't supply you with a frequency, try for every 25,000 miles. Yet, if your automobile already has a lot of mileage on it, do not change the transmission's ATF.

Appears crazy, but here's the deal. If you have a high mileage automobile (higher than 85,000 miles or so) and the tranny maintenance has not been executed, and the car still is operating good you must leave it alone. Here is the reason. Chances are the automatic transmission fluid that has always been in the tranny the entire duration is beginning to get pretty dirty and coarse.

All the same, believe it or not this dirt and grime in the tranny fluid is likely assisting the transmission to work effectively. If you have not been maintaining your transmission's ATF at normal intervals that soil and grit has caused erosion on the internal parts that wouldn't have came about had you been changing it correctly. These parts (such as the internal clutch and band parts) rely a lot on friction in order to operate correctly.

Now the friction that's ordinarily in these parts from the manufacturer has worn down because of lack of servicing. So, since they are absent their own friction, they really rely on the friction in the tranny's ATF in order to work correctly. Now, understanding that the components need friction in order to function the right way, if you get rid of all the friction in the transmission fluid, what do you think would happen? In most scenarios, this new clean slippery automatic transmission fluid will make your old high mile vehicle to have transmission troubles, characteristic slippage when shifting.

The plain actuality is, if you are not having any troubles with your old, higher mileage vehicle's tranny, and you haven't been keeping up with the typical maintenance on the transmission, the best advice you could really receive is to leave the transmission's ATF and filter alone. So, if you are having transmission troubles like slippage, hard or unreliable shifting, or having the tranny acting slow to shift when the motor is cold, get the expertise of a speciality tranny shop before getting your tranny's ATF serviced, cause odds are the transmission is relying on that coarse transmission fluid in order to keep functioning correctly. Servicing it could actually be putting it out of its misery.


Don't Replace Your Automatic Transmission Fluid!

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