Saturday 26 November 2011

Mercedes 126 Repair - Transmission Service

!±8± Mercedes 126 Repair - Transmission Service

The transmission in the Mercedes 126 is a very robust design, as one would expect. In its day, it was one of the best units available, which led Porsche to use it in the legendary 928. But as with all other systems on these cars, we should not let the reputation for longevity stop us from performing frequent services.

As a general rule of thumb, transmission fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles. Unlike modern cars, where the trend is to do away with service access ports altogether, these Mercedes transmissions allow us to drain not just the pan but also the torque converter. In other words, we can remove almost the entire fluid charge without resorting to such gimmicks as power flushes.

Whereas engine oil should be changed hot, transmission fluid is best changed when merely warm to protect the mechanic from a very real risk of scalding. The steps are as follows:

Drive the front of the car on to ramps or support on jack stands.
Make sure that the torque converter drain plug is accessible. Unless you have been very lucky, you will usually need to blip the engine on the starter to get the plug to come into view through the access hole. It can be "walked" the rest of the way with a large, flat-head screwdriver. It may also be necessary to remove the cross-member between the two front subframes ("dogbones"). The six retaining bolts have 17mm hex heads are are torqued to 45Nm.
Loosen the transmission pan drain plug with a 5mm hex socket, then allow the pan to drain into a suitable container. If possible, collect all the used fluid in one container and then measure it; this will help us dispense the right quantity when we refill.
When the pan has stopped draining, loosen the plug on the torque converter (same size as on the pan) and allow the torque converter to drain out. There is much more fluid here than in the pan.
When the two main flows have ceased, loosen the six bolts retaining the pan (13mm heads) and carefully remove the pan. Don't spill the remaining fluid all over yourself! Resist the temptation to wipe the innards with a shop towel: we don't want any pieces of lint in here.
Remove and replace the transmission filter, retained by Phillips-head screws.
Thoroughly clean out the pan with a lint-free cloth and replace the rubber gasket, ensuring a proper fit all the way around. Reinstall the pan, torquing the bolts gradually and evenly up to 10Nm. (The manual says 8Nm; a little more is fine. But please don't go overboard: these pans can be warped and they're not cheap.)
Replace both drain plugs, using new copper crush seals. Factory spec. is 14Nm, or about 10lbs/ft. Tight with a 3/8 drive works fine. If you removed the cross-member, replace it, being careful not to cross-thread the bolts.
(Optional) Crack open the trans cooler lines at the radiator (17mm wrench) and drain the small amount of fluid from this area. Replace the lines if their condition is dubious; they are not expensive. Retighten all connections.
Using a fine-mesh filter, add four quarts of fresh Dexron-Mercon transmission fluid (ATF) through the dipstick tube. If you can afford it, use synthetic fluid: it helps keep temperatures down by reducing internal friction, and heat is the number one enemy of automatic transmissions.
Start the engine and slowly add another three quarts.
Back the car off the ramps, run it through all the gears, pausing for a couple of seconds between each gear, then check the fluid level. You do not want to be over the minimum mark at this stage. Transmission fluid expands greatly when hot; the reference marks on the dipstick are calibrated for hot fluid. So it is o.k. to be half-an-inch or so below that mark while the fluid is cold.
Drive the car for about 20 minutes (yes, at least that much) to warm the fluid thoroughly. Transmission fluid takes longer to warm up than the engine oil or coolant and requires the friction of actual driving to get up to temperature. Check the fluid again on level ground. Make sure you don't leave any lint on the dipstick before replacing it in the tube. Any level between the marks is fine, but under no circumstances do we want to exceed the maximum level. If you need to add fluid, do so in very small increments and check again.

If you used synthetic fluid, you may notice that the shifts have become noticeably firmer. Compensate, if needed, by adjusting the modulator valve on the driver's side of the transmission. Turn the little key counter-clockwise until the shift quality is to your liking. Bear in mind that too much slip is bad for the internal clutches.


Mercedes 126 Repair - Transmission Service

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Sunday 20 November 2011

Drake Closer w.lyrics

ight call it what you want closer or closer to my dreams either way great song. if u want any song hit me up -lyrics- [Intro: Drake talking] Yeah I remember me and, me and D used to talk about this kind of stuff all the time, like What it's gonna be like when you get closer to your dreams I didn't know much then, but I can probably tell you a lil somethin' now [Verse 1:] Mr. Big Dreams no tolerance Cut you at the house and haven't hollered since Get bored quickly He stay grown So the pa-tron had to get poured quickly Ex girl strippin', I can't stop her New girl trippin' but I can't drop her Cause I need somethin' to balance out the fact That it's hard to find a woman when you talented and black When you hollerin' at labels and they silencin' you back Cause you fail to thoroughly discuss some violence in ya track well Gunshot for the young yacht owner See there's everybody else then there's one top loner First place is often the worst place But fuck it I love it here I call it my birthplace Whenever I walk in they makin' the worst face Surrounded by Filipinos I think of the worst case Watch chrome green diamonds I call it the earth face I'm gettin' ya cake I tell you how ya dessert taste I get a dessert plate Y'all eat pedigree as ya meal I've been Urkel for some years It's better bein' Jaleel Though I rock lean snap It's better bein' this real It's better drivin' a car with the letter B in the wheel Seat back Light sayin' tank on E I got the drank on me You better bank on ...

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Monday 7 November 2011

Selecting the Proper Oil For Your Motorcycle

!±8± Selecting the Proper Oil For Your Motorcycle

I see this debate going on in every motorcycle forum continuously, so I am going to weigh in with my thoughts. Opinions on oil are plentiful, everyone has one. I have owned and maintained 60-70 motorcycles of all varieties and have never had one oil related failure These are the guidelines I go by.

Auto Oil or Motorcycle Specific Oil
These debates get HEATED but I never pay much mind. The argument for motorcycle specific oils is that motorcycle oils are shared between the motor and the transmission and clutch components. Because of this they face more abuse than an auto oil would inside of a car. The faces of the transmission gears mashing together cause significant wear to your oil, which is why it is best recommended that motorcycle oils are changed on a more regular basis than a car. Most vocalists for motorcycle specific oils state that you should use them because they have additives to keep your clutch plates from slipping and wearing out faster.

In my book (remember, everyone has an opinion) oil is oil. A good quality auto oil is just as suitable for a motorcycle and gearbox as is a motorcycle specific oil. Auto oils also cost 1/3 the price and are available everywhere. I do not want to be tied to a dealer to get my oil. Occasionally I need to change oil while out on the road. If you use a common auto oil you can stop at any auto store, Walmart, or gas station and pick up a few quarts.

As for clutch condition. I have always used auto oils in every one of my bikes. I ride my bikes hard and frequently, and over all the years of riding on all sorts of different machines, I've only ever replaced clutch plates in one of my street bikes. Clutches are built to last and as long as your oil is kept clean, they will.

Oil Weight and Viscosity
Thick or thin? Warm blooded or cold blooded? It doesn't make a whole lot of difference unless you are riding in extreme conditions (very hot or very cold temperatures). Just like a car any typical 10w-40 weight oil is going to work great in most applications. Some prefer to run a 20w-50, but there really isn't a huge difference. Again, I prefer to use something real common so I can find it anywhere I go.

Synthetic or Fossil Oil
This gets a lot of heat in the forums too. Quality synthetic oils have only been available for 10-12 years. Engines built prior to that time period were not designed to use synthetic oils and should therefor use fossil oils. A new bike with low miles will benefit in the long run by using a synthetic oil, it has been proven that they really do protect better.

Consistency
This is something I feel very strongly about. Pick an oil and stick with it. I don't like mixing and matching oils, I much prefer to pick one type of oil that is commonly found in auto stores and stay the course. I do this with all my vehicles. I have no science to back up any claim that switching oil brands all the time is hurtful to your engine (and I doubt that it is). But there is something comforting about knowing the history of a bike, knowing that it is consistently maintained, and being able to recognize the condition of the oil by looking at the dipstick.

The Important Part
The important part of oil related motorcycle maintenance is not so much what oil you use, but how often you change it. Many motorcycles have drastically different oil capacities and run at much different RPM's. Those two factors are what contribute the most to the life of the oil in your bike. A bike with a large oil capacity that runs at relatively low RPM (like a large cruiser or mid sized twin) will circulate the oil slower and cause less wear. A high strung motorcycle (performance or sport oriented) will circulate the oil much faster and wear it out in about half the time. Most of my street machines get their oil changed every 2,000 miles.

What to Watch Out For

Don't run synthetic oil in an older motorcycle that has not been using it. Synthetic oils are more thin than fossil oils and can seep right though old gaskets. If you bike has been running on dino oil, keep it that way. Cheap oils. OK, auto oils may be inexpensive, but don't get the CHEAP stuff. Buy a major brand oil (mobil, pennzoil, castrol, etc) at a typical price point (-4 a quart). If you're buying some garbage oil like "Master Cruiser" for .39 at the dollar store, you are going to be sorry. Cheap oils are just that, cheap. They are the remaining sludge in the tank, they are often recycled, and if you look up their ratings they are often not suitable for vehicles made after 1950! Just use common sense and you'll be fine. Detergents. There aren't many oils that use detergents anymore, this can probably be lumped into the 'cheap oil' category. Back in the day they used to add detergents to oils to 'clean' the motors. This is no longer common practice as oils and motors have come a LONG way over the last 50 years. Do NOT put an oil with detergents into your wet clutch motorcycle. The detergents will make your clutch slip terribly and you'll need to flush the system several times with fresh oil, and maybe even remove the clutch plates to clean them by hand. Consider yourself warned. If there are detergents in an oil it will say it on the bottle, no common modern oils have detergents. Keep it topped up. After a long day of riding, or riding in some extensive heat, I always check the motor oil level. In fact, I check my oil nearly every time I stop for gas. It's cheap insurance. This habit was developed over the years of riding old motorcycles that weren't in optimal operation conditions and burned and leaked oil, but it is good practice for any rider on any bike. Always better safe than sorry.
Is There More to the Oil Story?
For some people there is more to the oil story. For me there is not.

What Oil Do I Use in My Motorcycles
If you're curious exactly what oils I run, here it is.

For the past 6 years all of my street going and 4 stroke off-road motorcycles have received standard Pennzoil 10w-40. I have found it to perform beautifully, it's available everywhere, it's priced right, and it's easily identifiable in a bright yellow container. My 2 stroke off road dirtbikes get any Dextron III ATF in the transmission and Klotz R-50 premixed in the gas.

I would recommend these choices to anyone with nearly any type of bike. If I had a brand new bike (or near new bike) I might run a synthetic, maybe. Oil change frequency is much more important to me than type of oil. Pick an oil, stick with it, change it regularly, ride happy.


Selecting the Proper Oil For Your Motorcycle

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Wednesday 19 October 2011

How to Replace a Transfer Case in a Jeep Cherokee

!±8± How to Replace a Transfer Case in a Jeep Cherokee

The Jeep Cherokee transfer case is an essential part of the for wheel drive system. The transfer case is separate from the transmission and can be easily removed for service or replacement. Here is how I did it last time I replaced one.

I began by draining the fluid by removing the bottom drain plug. Then I supported the transmission. Next I removed the front and rear drive shafts. An 8MM hex wrench and a pry bar was all that was needed.

I then unbolted the transmission mount using a 13MM socket. These nuts are inside the cross member and are accessed through the holes. Then I dropped the cross member by removing the 15MM bolts and nuts that hold it up. That gave me access to the transmission mount that is held to the transmission by two 18MM bolts. These bolts have thread locking compound on them and are hard to turn all the way out. I inspected the mount which is often broken in high mileage vehicles like this one but it was fine. Next I slipped the exhaust mount off the tab.

Rather than mess with the shift linkage bushing in the cold, I unbolted the shift lever from the transfer case. I selected 2wd and used a 9/16 wrench to remove the nut and washer. I carefully lowered the linkage out of the way. Normally I press out the linkage from the bushing. Unbolting the lever was easy so I may begin using that method as standard practice.

Next I removed the speedometer drive by unbolting the 13MM retaining bolt and removing the clip. I left the sender attached to the wiring harness. I pulled the harness away from the mounting tab on top of the case. I unplugged the mode light switch and moved the wiring out of the way.

Next, I unbolted the six 9/16 nuts that hold the case to the transmission. Five are accessed using a box end wrench. The last one is behind the transfers case shift linkage bracket and has to be accessed using a 9/16 socket and a long extension. The two near the exhaust pipe take some patience to get off unless you remove the exhaust pipe. Since this one was in good shape and welded in place, I left it alone. Lowering the case down helps get access to these two nuts.

With the six nuts off, the transfer case slides easily off the transmission. I then prepared the replacement case to go back in by putting it in 4wd. This allowed me to rotate the front yoke and make the input splines turn to line them up. With the replacement case in place I started a nut to hold in there.

Next, I tightened all six nuts. I then reinstalled the shift linkage, wiring harness and speedometer drive. I put the case in 2wd to make the linkage line up with the lever. I then reinstalled the front drive shaft as it is easier to access with the cross member out of the way. I filled the transfer case with fluid before putting up the rear drive shaft as it is easier to get the bottle in place with out the drive shaft in the way. The 231 holds a little more than a quart of ATF.

I then put up the exhaust bracket and transmission mount. Again, these bolts are hard to turn due to the thread locking compound on them. I then put up the cross member and bolted it to the body before lowering the weight of the transmission onto the cross member. I then reinstalled the four nuts that hold the transmission mount to the cross member.

Then, I reinstalled the rear drive shaft. I checked for leaks and loose bolts and then lowered the Jeep for a test drive. The replacement transfer case worked fine and shifted to all gears with out adjusting the linkage. If a linkage adjustment is needed, loosen the 13 MM bolt on the linkage and slide it to the proper position.


How to Replace a Transfer Case in a Jeep Cherokee

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Wednesday 12 October 2011

Should You Have Your Car's Transmission Flushed?

!±8± Should You Have Your Car's Transmission Flushed?

Depending on the make and model of your vehicle, and whether you purchase a rebuilt or new transmission, replacing the assembly can cost up to ,500. For this reason, you should do everything possible to prolong its life. As with your engine, regular maintenance can go a long way toward protecting your transmission from premature failure. The good news is that maintenance is as easy as changing the fluid.

You may have noticed that the mechanics at your dealership or local repair shop recommend transmission flushes. But is the service necessary? More importantly, could it cause a problem with your car's tranny? In this article, we'll present both sides of the issue, so you'll be able to make an informed decision about the service. We'll also provide a quick "how to" guide for changing the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in your vehicle.

Advantage Of Replacing The ATF

Some automakers claim that drivers do not need to change the fluid in their transmissions. They suggest the ATF can last the life of the assembly. Unfortunately, this claim may not be entirely true.

The fluid is filled with chemicals that help protect your transmission during operation. These chemicals ensure the gears shift smoothly and reliably. The problem is, the heat surrounding the assembly causes the temperature of the ATF to rise. This in turn causes oxidation; the chemicals begin to break down, and provide less protection to the tranny. When this happens, the moving parts begin to generate friction, which causes the shifting to become staggered or uneven. You'll notice a delayed response, or a jerking sensation when the gears shift.

Replacing the fluid introduces a new batch of protective chemicals into the assembly. They prevent the friction that can eventually destroy the gears and other components. Thus, changing the ATF prolongs its useful life, and postpones an overhaul.

So, how often should you change the fluid? A lot depends on the conditions in which you drive. Many mechanics suggest changing it every 30,000 miles, but placing a load on the assembly will accelerate the fluid's oxidation. If you normally drive aggressively, or haul heavy items up hills, you may need to change it every 20,000 miles.

Potential Hazards Of "Flushing" The Transmission

This brings us to the question of whether flushing your transmission is necessary and safe. During a flush, a special machine is used to push solvents at high pressure backward through the assembly. The solvents and pressure help to jar loose deposits and debris that have accumulated. By cleaning the system, the ATF can flow through it more easily, providing a higher level of lubrication.

There is a danger, however, that knocking loose the deposits will cause bigger problems down the road. For example, if the deposits are pushed through the assembly, but not expelled, they can create an obstruction that prevents fluid from flowing. This will essentially starve your transmission of ATF, which can quickly lead to costly repairs (or worse, an overhaul).

It is worth noting that flushes are generally not recommended for high-mileage vehicles (those with over 100,000 miles) for this reason.

Examining And Changing The Fluid

Thus far, we have explained why changing the ATF is a good idea, and the reason flushing your transmission is a poor one. We'll now explain how to do the former.

Before you start, check the scent, color, and consistency of the fluid. If the ATF is completely oxidized, it will smell as if something is burning. Next, place a few drops on a paper towel, and examine its color. If it is darkly colored, it needs to be changed. Observe its consistency as the drops spread on the paper towel. If the fluid is static (i.e. it does not spread), oxidation has already occurred.

Place sturdy jacks under the frame of your vehicle, and lift it. Locate the pan in which the fluid sits (typically, beneath the dipstick), and loosen the bolts that are holding it in place. Position a bowl or container under the pan to drain the ATF. Then, remove the pan. Some pans will be equipped with a drain plug that can be removed in order to drain the fluid.

With the pan removed and the ATF drained, clean any residual transmission fluid that remains in the pan. You'll likely see small metal particles; remove them, as well.

Next, replace the transmission filter, and the gasket around the perimeter of the pan. Install the new filter and gasket, and replace the pan before tightening the bolts. With everything in place, add the new ATF. Add it slowly, and check the level periodically to avoid overfilling.

The takeaway is that you should check your transmission fluid on a regular basis, and replace it when it becomes oxidized. But avoid having the assembly flushed since doing so can cause more harm than good.


Should You Have Your Car's Transmission Flushed?

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Saturday 8 October 2011

Don't Replace Your Automatic Transmission Fluid!

!±8± Don't Replace Your Automatic Transmission Fluid!

Are you taking care of your right cross around? And 'generally accepted that your car needs an engine oil changed as often as 3000 miles, but how many times you need to outsource the management of the automatic transmission fluid? This really depends on your car, please take a look at your car and run to see what they recommend. However, we will want some general rules of thumb, when the tranny fluid should be maintained to provide.

Unfortunately, the transsexualone of the most disregarded parts of rides now, and yet it's one of of the most critical parts. Neglecting to maintain your transmission can cause early failure, and if you do not maintain your tranny very early on in the lifetime of the car, you're setting your self up for trouble if you try to replace the fluid late in the transmission's lifetime.

Please follow the normal service guidelines detailed in your automobile's car manual. If it doesn't supply you with a frequency, try for every 25,000 miles. Yet, if your automobile already has a lot of mileage on it, do not change the transmission's ATF.

Appears crazy, but here's the deal. If you have a high mileage automobile (higher than 85,000 miles or so) and the tranny maintenance has not been executed, and the car still is operating good you must leave it alone. Here is the reason. Chances are the automatic transmission fluid that has always been in the tranny the entire duration is beginning to get pretty dirty and coarse.

All the same, believe it or not this dirt and grime in the tranny fluid is likely assisting the transmission to work effectively. If you have not been maintaining your transmission's ATF at normal intervals that soil and grit has caused erosion on the internal parts that wouldn't have came about had you been changing it correctly. These parts (such as the internal clutch and band parts) rely a lot on friction in order to operate correctly.

Now the friction that's ordinarily in these parts from the manufacturer has worn down because of lack of servicing. So, since they are absent their own friction, they really rely on the friction in the tranny's ATF in order to work correctly. Now, understanding that the components need friction in order to function the right way, if you get rid of all the friction in the transmission fluid, what do you think would happen? In most scenarios, this new clean slippery automatic transmission fluid will make your old high mile vehicle to have transmission troubles, characteristic slippage when shifting.

The plain actuality is, if you are not having any troubles with your old, higher mileage vehicle's tranny, and you haven't been keeping up with the typical maintenance on the transmission, the best advice you could really receive is to leave the transmission's ATF and filter alone. So, if you are having transmission troubles like slippage, hard or unreliable shifting, or having the tranny acting slow to shift when the motor is cold, get the expertise of a speciality tranny shop before getting your tranny's ATF serviced, cause odds are the transmission is relying on that coarse transmission fluid in order to keep functioning correctly. Servicing it could actually be putting it out of its misery.


Don't Replace Your Automatic Transmission Fluid!

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Sunday 25 September 2011

Red Line D6 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) - 1 Gallon, Pack of 4

!±8±Red Line D6 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) - 1 Gallon, Pack of 4

Brand : Red Line
Rate :
Price : $175.80
Post Date : Sep 25, 2011 21:00:07
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Red Line's D6 Automatic Transmission Fluid is recommended where the latest Dexron-VI is required, as well as where Ford Mercon SP, Toyota WS and Mercedes Benz NAG-2 fluids are specified. Red Line D6 ATF satisfies the requirements for many of the latest automatic transmissions that require consistent, low-viscosity fluids that are shear-stable and provides the best low-temperature shiftability in automatic and manual transmissions which require ATFs. It also satisfies API 70W/75W GL-4 gear requirements.

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Thursday 22 September 2011

Volkswagen Repair - The Truth about Automatic Transmission Fluid 'to life' VW

!±8± Volkswagen Repair - The Truth about Automatic Transmission Fluid 'to life' VW

If there's one thing met the International Motor Sports of San Francisco over the years, Volkswagen has problems with automatic. 'Life' the reason for Volkswagen Automatic Transmission Fluid seems too good to be true, because it is. Although modern synthetic fluid protects better and lasts longer than comparable oils, will not last forever. In fact, legally, the term "fluid lifetime" only for the duration of the VW Powertrain Warranty. Soif the warranty has expired, you're out of luck.

Volkswagen, along with many other car manufacturers know that most owners keep their cars past 100,000 miles. The fluid so-called 'life' is simply a touch of marketing used to sell cars that need to be 'low maintenance. "But after the mile 100,000 (when vehicles require real attention), most repairs are guaranteed Volkswagen null and void. 'S Why VW plans after 105.000 miles timing belt replacement on 1.8T engines, and whyMost of the 'life' guarantees are forged.

If you're going to keep your car for a while ', the cost will never be replaced by ATF scare. Left intact to an entire 'life' of this liquid can cause serious damage to the filter and oil pans. Deposits of metal chips is based on the filter and oil pan, and eventually damage the gear. The resulting repairs are expensive. So do yourself a favor. If you maintain your car to 150,000 or 200,000 miles per plane, change yourATF itself on a regular basis.

Although this task may be complicated, it's worth. Visit your local VW-Audi car parts dealers (and ECStuning German auto parts, etc.) and the purchase of a VW-specific oil and filter kit. For both the 01M and MK4-speed automatic transmission, you get the kit Pentosin ATF filter and G-052-162-A2. Do the same goes with gear oil, your car and continue into old age.

By the way, do not bother to ask Volkswagen ServiceWriters on this 'life' loopholes. They insist that such products are of ATF 'closed with life ", but this is only for corporate mandate. If you really want to keep your Volkswagen running smoothly, please follow the Council. Or, if the longest duration and To receive the best performance from your Volkswagen to do it yourself, or contact a Volkswagen repair shop, who are willing to perform this type of preventive maintenance for you. It 'a lot cheaperReplace the entire transmission.


Volkswagen Repair - The Truth about Automatic Transmission Fluid 'to life' VW

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Sunday 18 September 2011

Valvoline VV324 MAXLIFE DEXRONIII/MERCON ATF, Pack of Twelve 1 Quart Bottles

!±8±Valvoline VV324 MAXLIFE DEXRONIII/MERCON ATF, Pack of Twelve 1 Quart Bottles

Brand : Valvoline
Rate :
Price :
Post Date : Sep 19, 2011 00:38:43
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MaxLife ATF contains a blend of superior base oils and a unique additive package to help extend the life of transmissions. It is formulated to maximize transmission performance, reduce transmission wear, and improve and maintain smooth shifting longer than conventional fluids. MaxLife ATF is compatible with new and rebuilt transmissions and will not void new car warranties. Recommended for use in GM, Ford, Mazda, Toyota, Chrysler and most import vehicles.Have techical questions, please feel free to call our Tech Service # 1-800-TeamVal

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Thursday 15 September 2011

Mercedes 126 Repair - Liquid forgotten, Part II

!±8± Mercedes 126 Repair - Liquid forgotten, Part II

Mercedes 126 Repair: Forgot liquids, Part I, we looked at the rear differential. Now we turn our attention to another liquid that most owners do not make the effort to change - power steering fluid.

Power steering fluid CHANGE

Most of the owners of Mercedes 126 will never dismantle its recirculating ball steering. But they win a newfound appreciation for the importance of clean liquid in the power steering. In addition to the main group and the wormInterface between the ball nut and equipment sector, which turns into reality the Pitman arm, there are several sets of needle bearings. All these moving parts are lubricated by a continuous flow of power steering fluid. The most polluted that is liquid, the faster these parts are worn out. It resulted in a worn steering sloppy driving, the potential risks to safety and an expensive repair or replacement. (The power steering pump to replace the other hand is much, much easier, and a goodunits of measurement can be purchased for less than $ 50.)

There has been some debate as to whether the use of Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) in this system. While ATF is specified in the manual, ATF is not what it once was and has become a bit 'hostile to the steering in many seals. Ideally this should be avoided in favor of the old ATF power steering clear liquid. While synthetic fluids are present, the conventional fluids are perfectly fine.

To change the fluid,Support to the front of the car on jack stands so that both front wheels off the ground. Loosen the clamp securing the return pipe to the return of "mouthpiece" screwed the pump and the tube directly into a suitable container to collect the old fluid. Or close the snorkeling or solve it with a 19 mm wrench and turn it so that it upwards so that the liquid filling the tank without the return match. The standard procedure is to start the engine and add liquidwhile the pump forces the old fluid out quickly. But this method has some serious drawbacks. It is very emphatically a one-man operation. The flow is so fast that it is a great risk that the pump runs dry and takes in air, unless a steady supply of new liquid is poured into when things get out of hand, support is required for the engine immediately. If you do not want no one to help and not risk damaging the pump or pull air into the system, you need a betterWay.

Fortunately, it is quite possible, pump the old fluid in a highly controlled by simply turning the steering wheel from stop to stop. Keep the liquid level is in the tank above the filter clean to prevent the entry of air, and continue until you are convinced that the liquid leaving the system through the return pipe. Need 2 to 3 liters of liquid is completely full, but if you try to remove all traces (red), ATF, you can take a little 'moreends with a completely clean container. If you are satisfied, connect the return hose and bleed the system completely by turning the steering wheel back and forth with the engine running.

This course is the perfect opportunity to replace the filter in the pump and replace the tubes back in control of rubber, if necessary. The fact that Mercedes has a filter in the power steering pump tells us about the importance of clean fluid. Like many other car manufacturerswhat?


Mercedes 126 Repair - Liquid forgotten, Part II

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