Mercedes 126 Repair - Transmission Service

!±8± Mercedes 126 Repair - Transmission Service

The transmission in the Mercedes 126 is a very robust design, as one would expect. In its day, it was one of the best units available, which led Porsche to use it in the legendary 928. But as with all other systems on these cars, we should not let the reputation for longevity stop us from performing frequent services.

As a general rule of thumb, transmission fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles. Unlike modern cars, where the trend is to do away with service access ports altogether, these Mercedes transmissions allow us to drain not just the pan but also the torque converter. In other words, we can remove almost the entire fluid charge without resorting to such gimmicks as power flushes.

Whereas engine oil should be changed hot, transmission fluid is best changed when merely warm to protect the mechanic from a very real risk of scalding. The steps are as follows:

Drive the front of the car on to ramps or support on jack stands.
Make sure that the torque converter drain plug is accessible. Unless you have been very lucky, you will usually need to blip the engine on the starter to get the plug to come into view through the access hole. It can be "walked" the rest of the way with a large, flat-head screwdriver. It may also be necessary to remove the cross-member between the two front subframes ("dogbones"). The six retaining bolts have 17mm hex heads are are torqued to 45Nm.
Loosen the transmission pan drain plug with a 5mm hex socket, then allow the pan to drain into a suitable container. If possible, collect all the used fluid in one container and then measure it; this will help us dispense the right quantity when we refill.
When the pan has stopped draining, loosen the plug on the torque converter (same size as on the pan) and allow the torque converter to drain out. There is much more fluid here than in the pan.
When the two main flows have ceased, loosen the six bolts retaining the pan (13mm heads) and carefully remove the pan. Don't spill the remaining fluid all over yourself! Resist the temptation to wipe the innards with a shop towel: we don't want any pieces of lint in here.
Remove and replace the transmission filter, retained by Phillips-head screws.
Thoroughly clean out the pan with a lint-free cloth and replace the rubber gasket, ensuring a proper fit all the way around. Reinstall the pan, torquing the bolts gradually and evenly up to 10Nm. (The manual says 8Nm; a little more is fine. But please don't go overboard: these pans can be warped and they're not cheap.)
Replace both drain plugs, using new copper crush seals. Factory spec. is 14Nm, or about 10lbs/ft. Tight with a 3/8 drive works fine. If you removed the cross-member, replace it, being careful not to cross-thread the bolts.
(Optional) Crack open the trans cooler lines at the radiator (17mm wrench) and drain the small amount of fluid from this area. Replace the lines if their condition is dubious; they are not expensive. Retighten all connections.
Using a fine-mesh filter, add four quarts of fresh Dexron-Mercon transmission fluid (ATF) through the dipstick tube. If you can afford it, use synthetic fluid: it helps keep temperatures down by reducing internal friction, and heat is the number one enemy of automatic transmissions.
Start the engine and slowly add another three quarts.
Back the car off the ramps, run it through all the gears, pausing for a couple of seconds between each gear, then check the fluid level. You do not want to be over the minimum mark at this stage. Transmission fluid expands greatly when hot; the reference marks on the dipstick are calibrated for hot fluid. So it is o.k. to be half-an-inch or so below that mark while the fluid is cold.
Drive the car for about 20 minutes (yes, at least that much) to warm the fluid thoroughly. Transmission fluid takes longer to warm up than the engine oil or coolant and requires the friction of actual driving to get up to temperature. Check the fluid again on level ground. Make sure you don't leave any lint on the dipstick before replacing it in the tube. Any level between the marks is fine, but under no circumstances do we want to exceed the maximum level. If you need to add fluid, do so in very small increments and check again.

If you used synthetic fluid, you may notice that the shifts have become noticeably firmer. Compensate, if needed, by adjusting the modulator valve on the driver's side of the transmission. Turn the little key counter-clockwise until the shift quality is to your liking. Bear in mind that too much slip is bad for the internal clutches.

Mercedes 126 Repair - Transmission Service

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Drake Closer w.lyrics

!±8± Drake Closer w.lyrics

ight call it what you want closer or closer to my dreams either way great song. if u want any song hit me up -lyrics- [Intro: Drake talking] Yeah I remember me and, me and D used to talk about this kind of stuff all the time, like What it's gonna be like when you get closer to your dreams I didn't know much then, but I can probably tell you a lil somethin' now [Verse 1:] Mr. Big Dreams no tolerance Cut you at the house and haven't hollered since Get bored quickly He stay grown So the pa-tron had to get poured quickly Ex girl strippin', I can't stop her New girl trippin' but I can't drop her Cause I need somethin' to balance out the fact That it's hard to find a woman when you talented and black When you hollerin' at labels and they silencin' you back Cause you fail to thoroughly discuss some violence in ya track well Gunshot for the young yacht owner See there's everybody else then there's one top loner First place is often the worst place But fuck it I love it here I call it my birthplace Whenever I walk in they makin' the worst face Surrounded by Filipinos I think of the worst case Watch chrome green diamonds I call it the earth face I'm gettin' ya cake I tell you how ya dessert taste I get a dessert plate Y'all eat pedigree as ya meal I've been Urkel for some years It's better bein' Jaleel Though I rock lean snap It's better bein' this real It's better drivin' a car with the letter B in the wheel Seat back Light sayin' tank on E I got the drank on me You better bank on ...

Drake Closer w.lyrics

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Wynn's Transmission Flush Service

!±8± Wynn's Transmission Flush Service

Wynn's Transmission Flush Service

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Selecting the Proper Oil For Your Motorcycle

!±8± Selecting the Proper Oil For Your Motorcycle

I see this debate going on in every motorcycle forum continuously, so I am going to weigh in with my thoughts. Opinions on oil are plentiful, everyone has one. I have owned and maintained 60-70 motorcycles of all varieties and have never had one oil related failure These are the guidelines I go by.

Auto Oil or Motorcycle Specific Oil
These debates get HEATED but I never pay much mind. The argument for motorcycle specific oils is that motorcycle oils are shared between the motor and the transmission and clutch components. Because of this they face more abuse than an auto oil would inside of a car. The faces of the transmission gears mashing together cause significant wear to your oil, which is why it is best recommended that motorcycle oils are changed on a more regular basis than a car. Most vocalists for motorcycle specific oils state that you should use them because they have additives to keep your clutch plates from slipping and wearing out faster.

In my book (remember, everyone has an opinion) oil is oil. A good quality auto oil is just as suitable for a motorcycle and gearbox as is a motorcycle specific oil. Auto oils also cost 1/3 the price and are available everywhere. I do not want to be tied to a dealer to get my oil. Occasionally I need to change oil while out on the road. If you use a common auto oil you can stop at any auto store, Walmart, or gas station and pick up a few quarts.

As for clutch condition. I have always used auto oils in every one of my bikes. I ride my bikes hard and frequently, and over all the years of riding on all sorts of different machines, I've only ever replaced clutch plates in one of my street bikes. Clutches are built to last and as long as your oil is kept clean, they will.

Oil Weight and Viscosity
Thick or thin? Warm blooded or cold blooded? It doesn't make a whole lot of difference unless you are riding in extreme conditions (very hot or very cold temperatures). Just like a car any typical 10w-40 weight oil is going to work great in most applications. Some prefer to run a 20w-50, but there really isn't a huge difference. Again, I prefer to use something real common so I can find it anywhere I go.

Synthetic or Fossil Oil
This gets a lot of heat in the forums too. Quality synthetic oils have only been available for 10-12 years. Engines built prior to that time period were not designed to use synthetic oils and should therefor use fossil oils. A new bike with low miles will benefit in the long run by using a synthetic oil, it has been proven that they really do protect better.

Consistency
This is something I feel very strongly about. Pick an oil and stick with it. I don't like mixing and matching oils, I much prefer to pick one type of oil that is commonly found in auto stores and stay the course. I do this with all my vehicles. I have no science to back up any claim that switching oil brands all the time is hurtful to your engine (and I doubt that it is). But there is something comforting about knowing the history of a bike, knowing that it is consistently maintained, and being able to recognize the condition of the oil by looking at the dipstick.

The Important Part
The important part of oil related motorcycle maintenance is not so much what oil you use, but how often you change it. Many motorcycles have drastically different oil capacities and run at much different RPM's. Those two factors are what contribute the most to the life of the oil in your bike. A bike with a large oil capacity that runs at relatively low RPM (like a large cruiser or mid sized twin) will circulate the oil slower and cause less wear. A high strung motorcycle (performance or sport oriented) will circulate the oil much faster and wear it out in about half the time. Most of my street machines get their oil changed every 2,000 miles.

What to Watch Out For

Don't run synthetic oil in an older motorcycle that has not been using it. Synthetic oils are more thin than fossil oils and can seep right though old gaskets. If you bike has been running on dino oil, keep it that way. Cheap oils. OK, auto oils may be inexpensive, but don't get the CHEAP stuff. Buy a major brand oil (mobil, pennzoil, castrol, etc) at a typical price point (-4 a quart). If you're buying some garbage oil like "Master Cruiser" for .39 at the dollar store, you are going to be sorry. Cheap oils are just that, cheap. They are the remaining sludge in the tank, they are often recycled, and if you look up their ratings they are often not suitable for vehicles made after 1950! Just use common sense and you'll be fine. Detergents. There aren't many oils that use detergents anymore, this can probably be lumped into the 'cheap oil' category. Back in the day they used to add detergents to oils to 'clean' the motors. This is no longer common practice as oils and motors have come a LONG way over the last 50 years. Do NOT put an oil with detergents into your wet clutch motorcycle. The detergents will make your clutch slip terribly and you'll need to flush the system several times with fresh oil, and maybe even remove the clutch plates to clean them by hand. Consider yourself warned. If there are detergents in an oil it will say it on the bottle, no common modern oils have detergents. Keep it topped up. After a long day of riding, or riding in some extensive heat, I always check the motor oil level. In fact, I check my oil nearly every time I stop for gas. It's cheap insurance. This habit was developed over the years of riding old motorcycles that weren't in optimal operation conditions and burned and leaked oil, but it is good practice for any rider on any bike. Always better safe than sorry.
Is There More to the Oil Story?
For some people there is more to the oil story. For me there is not.

What Oil Do I Use in My Motorcycles
If you're curious exactly what oils I run, here it is.

For the past 6 years all of my street going and 4 stroke off-road motorcycles have received standard Pennzoil 10w-40. I have found it to perform beautifully, it's available everywhere, it's priced right, and it's easily identifiable in a bright yellow container. My 2 stroke off road dirtbikes get any Dextron III ATF in the transmission and Klotz R-50 premixed in the gas.

I would recommend these choices to anyone with nearly any type of bike. If I had a brand new bike (or near new bike) I might run a synthetic, maybe. Oil change frequency is much more important to me than type of oil. Pick an oil, stick with it, change it regularly, ride happy.

Selecting the Proper Oil For Your Motorcycle

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